View of Ailsa Craig from the Isle of Arran

Somewhere along the belly of Arran I am kicking across sandy turf where boats are beached and a handful of world-weary buildings face the sea. The music in my headphones tethers me to a life in stasis. Cold winds dent my jacket, claw my hair. A mown ramp leads to a bench, a rocky crevice, and perspective. In the sea beyond Arran, Ailsa Craig rises, suspended on the horizon, like some abandoned, ley pyramid. I pluck headphones from my ears and let this scene rest in my sight like a butterfly in the hand. I’m waiting for it to disappear in the sea mist, for a blink to send it into memory. Moments of clarity are just those.

Fairy rock, refuge of Catholics, bastion against the spectre of invading Spanish, land for sale – Ailsa Craig has been all these things, still is those things. Who can say what it will be in the future? Ailsa Craig hovers between the rocky bookends. Once I believed this was a liminal time in my life, a metamorphosis that would lead me to a final state. I see now that I will always be on the sea, moving between two poles I can never reach, that I must wish not to reach, though I paddle like a man possessed.

Article Comments

  1. Randy February 22, 2013 at 4:12 pm

    Never seen Ailsa Craig, but it looks like a pretty nice view from where you took your photograph. Its so sheer it looks like there isn’t anyplace to build a lighthouse on it. It reminds me of Five Islands Provincial Park in Nova Scotia. I never had the opportunity to explore the Firth of Clyde, getting to see the former John Brown Shipyard was my farthest trip up the Clyde. I can just imagine the cold wind blowing in from the sea, and the smell. Makes me want to go back and explore some more. 🙂

    1. Keith Savage February 23, 2013 at 7:28 am

      There’s a ruined castle on Ailsa Craig, too, I believe. Castles in the unlikeliest places.

  2. Edingurgh traveler February 25, 2013 at 5:51 am

    It seems almost impossible that wherever you go in Scotland you always find a mysteriously scenic view and a story to tell… Is it a result of previous study or is Scotland really filled with tales and beautiful places that wherever you go you stumble into one? 🙂
    Beautiful photo – as usual…

    1. Keith Savage February 25, 2013 at 7:59 am

      These photos are always the result of serendipity in my travel. So, it really IS that Scotland is just filled with an unfathomable number of beautiful and mystical places.

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