Finding Camelot at Tantallon Castle

Just 30 miles east of Edinburgh stands one of Scotland’s great castle ruins, the rose-hued Tantallon Castle, crowning East Lothian on the Firth of Forth coast. I cannot say for how long my desire burned to visit this reputedly gorgeous and historically rich castle other than to say, simply, too long. Being so close to Edinburgh, which should figure into anyone’s trip to Scotland, one would think it should be no trouble to visit, but Edinburgh — and the highlands — are like magnets that make journeys east and south from the majestic city difficult indeed.

If you’ve been reading Traveling Savage over the past year, however, you’ll know the truth: There are enough riches scattered around Scotland to draw and quarter you upon the compass rose.

So it was that I drove north from the Scottish Borders, through the town of Duns and the coast road to Dunbar, into the hinterland of East Lothian. The landscape is pastoral and grassy, perfect for grazing sheep, with a couple of striking hills, Traprain Law and North Berwick Law, visible from nearly everywhere in the small council area. The path to Tantallon Castle takes you down small roads deep into the rural countryside to the coast east of North Berwick. It’s then a short hike past the ticket office upon grassy sward before your eyes fall upon Tantallon’s romantic facade.

There’s something about castle ruins overhanging the sea that chokes me up. Have you seen Dunnottar Castle? Here, standing upon an earthen embankment that surely served as a defensive fortification in times of yore, the immense red sandstone curtain wall dominates the skyline while a doocot in the same style stands in the foreground. Between them, off in the distant sea, rises the frosted eminence of Bass Rock (it’s a sea bird colony — I don’t need to tell you what it’s frosted with).

On a sunny and windswept day, it’s a view to die for.

And in fact, many people did die here over the course of Tantallon’s 300-year occupation. Tantallon Castle was built around 1350 by William Douglas and passed down to his illegitimate son George, who became the progenitor of the Red Douglases (as opposed to the dastardly Black Douglases). Tantallon was besieged again and again throughout its functional life, first by King James IV in 1491 and again by his successor, King James V, in 1528. One hundred and fifty years later, Tantallon was besieged during the First Bishops’ War and finally by everyone’s favorite abbey-burner, Oliver Cromwell, in 1651.

Tantallon Castle is considered to be the last great medieval castle built on Scottish soil. Though much of it remains in ruins today, the truth is there never was much to it. Approaching the castle, the mind creates an image of its unseen parts — the castle must be square with the curtain wall extending on all four sides with battlements and towers — when the reality is that Tantallon is a singular curtain wall protecting a coastal promontory naturally defended on three sides by steep cliffs.

Walking across the wooden bridge toward Tantallon’s gatehouse is a spine-tingling moment. The massive fore tower looms over you in a mix of red sandstone and green stone from the nearby cliffs. The green stone was added to strengthen the fore tower after 20 days of artillery bombardment by King James V in 1528.

The interior of the gate house has a gloomy, menacing feel despite the sun shining through the roof-less space. Green moss and lichen blanket the lower stones where the shadows rarely depart, and sea birds nest in the shattered openings high up the walls. Look closely at the opening with the metal guard rails. Do you see anything? This is the famous place of Tantallon’s spooky ghost sightings.

The backside of Tantallon Castle’s curtain wall opens onto a wide green close with additional ruins along the north cliffs and stunning views out to sea. The view back here completes one’s sense of scale and provides excellent sight-lines to Tantallon’s three towers, where the Earls of Angus lived.

Unlike many other castle ruins, Tantallon Castle isn’t just something to look at. Within the enormously thick curtain wall are stairs that lead up to the wall walk. Nothing gives you a better idea of what castle life must have been like than to walk the walls with the cool, sea wind desperately trying to rip off your hair and clothing.

But what about the title of this post? Camelot, you say? There is no definitive proof of where Camelot was to be found, or if it even existed, but one theory has its origin as Tantallon Castle. There are, in fact, many clues that Arthur and his tale took place in southern Scotland, from Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh to the Isle of Arran which, of old, was known as Avalon. Guinevere is said to have hailed from Perth while Sir Lancelot is associated with nearby Traprain Law. Undiscovered Scotland has a great article on Arthur and his connection to various places in Scotland. That it might all have started here adds my favorite kind of mystical twist to any historic site.

From the edge of the cliffs inside Tantallon’s walls there are unimpeded views of Bass Rock, which warps perceptions of size and scale: It looks like a stone standing in a puddle. Bass Rock is a conspicuous island, however, and it has figured large in history and myth. It played no small part in Robert Louis Stevenson’s Catriona (the sequel to Kidnapped).

I didn’t want to leave Tantallon Castle. In my view, it is one of the most beautiful and engaging castle ruins in all of Scotland. Even the name rolls off the tongue with beauty and grace. I may just have to update my best castles post for this one.

In the meantime, head east good traveler!

Disclosure: Historic Scotland provided me with complimentary entry. All thoughts and opinions expressed here are my own.