Eastern Scotland north of the Firth of Tay is pastoral highlands at their finest. This region, Angus, abounds with rolling farms, wide pastures, a surprisingly varied landscape, and an incredibly deep well of history. Angus overflows with the fragments of the Picts, a mysterious culture widespread across Scotland during the Iron Age and Dark Ages. Their symbol stones and dwellings, brochs and crumbling steadings, still dot the Angus landscape. It is into this countryside that Balbinny, a series of luxury self-catering accommodations set on a family farm, awaits.
Just beyond the stunning Aberlemno standing stones lies Balbinny‘s trio of gorgeous steadings and two brochs. David Milne, the man behind the development, has worked this land all his life. With perfect business sense he devised a plan to transition this slice of the Angus countryside into a destination in its own right: High-end accommodations informed by local history, countryside walks, fitness suite, pool, and spa.
Seems like a fair idea. After all, the well-traveled folks in his family said there’s no better view in all the world than the one overlooking the River South Esk.
To say I was looking forward to my stay at Balbinny this past May is a severe understatement. I’m a sap for exactly this kind of accommodation (see the Brochs of Coigach). As I pulled into Balbinny on an overcast afternoon I passed the steadings and facilities to find a gravel track leading to a pair of brochs overlooking that wide river valley with the Angus glens looming to the north. Taking inspiration from Scotland’s ancient drystone brochs, Balbinny presents a nexus of old and new that feels like an ode to Angus’s ancestry.
The brochs are beautiful buildings built with stone recycled from the previous steadings on the farm. I entered my broch, called Lethnot after one of the Angus glens, to hear music playing over the broch’s Sonos sound system. I paused, wide-eyed, wondering if I’d entered someone else’s place — the keys were in the door — and slowly wandered through the hardwood hallway to the open-concept kitchen and living area. A couple of boxes of delectable Angus specialties waited on the counter next to a sign welcoming me to Lethnot.
I almost teared up! It was such a magnificent welcome after a long and tiring day. And then the views. Wow!
The entire side of the broch facing the river valley is essentially a wall of windows. A powerful wood-burning stove anchors the living area around which stand loads of comfy seating. A small but sturdy dining table stands beneath a flat-screen TV and adjacent to the fully kitted-out and beautiful kitchen and island. A narrow wine fridge hides in that island — what a surprise finding that!