Eastern Scotland north of the Firth of Tay is pastoral highlands at their finest. This region, Angus, abounds with rolling farms, wide pastures, a surprisingly varied landscape, and an incredibly deep well of history. Angus overflows with the fragments of the Picts, a mysterious culture widespread across Scotland during the Iron Age and Dark Ages. Their symbol stones and dwellings, brochs and crumbling steadings, still dot the Angus landscape. It is into this countryside that Balbinny, a series of luxury self-catering accommodations set on a family farm, awaits.

Just beyond the stunning Aberlemno standing stones lies Balbinny‘s trio of gorgeous steadings and two brochs. David Milne, the man behind the development, has worked this land all his life. With perfect business sense he devised a plan to transition this slice of the Angus countryside into a destination in its own right: High-end accommodations informed by local history, countryside walks, fitness suite, pool, and spa.

Seems like a fair idea. After all, the well-traveled folks in his family said there’s no better view in all the world than the one overlooking the River South Esk.

Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

To say I was looking forward to my stay at Balbinny this past May is a severe understatement. I’m a sap for exactly this kind of accommodation (see the Brochs of Coigach). As I pulled into Balbinny on an overcast afternoon I passed the steadings and facilities to find a gravel track leading to a pair of brochs overlooking that wide river valley with the Angus glens looming to the north. Taking inspiration from Scotland’s ancient drystone brochs, Balbinny presents a nexus of old and new that feels like an ode to Angus’s ancestry.

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

The brochs are beautiful buildings built with stone recycled from the previous steadings on the farm. I entered my broch, called Lethnot after one of the Angus glens, to hear music playing over the broch’s Sonos sound system. I paused, wide-eyed, wondering if I’d entered someone else’s place — the keys were in the door — and slowly wandered through the hardwood hallway to the open-concept kitchen and living area. A couple of boxes of delectable Angus specialties waited on the counter next to a sign welcoming me to Lethnot.

I almost teared up! It was such a magnificent welcome after a long and tiring day. And then the views. Wow!

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

The entire side of the broch facing the river valley is essentially a wall of windows. A powerful wood-burning stove anchors the living area around which stand loads of comfy seating. A small but sturdy dining table stands beneath a flat-screen TV and adjacent to the fully kitted-out and beautiful kitchen and island. A narrow wine fridge hides in that island — what a surprise finding that!

It takes no time to see that everything at Balbinny is done to a very high level. I had Lethnot to myself, but it holds two bedrooms and two bathrooms in its comfy, cozy embrace. Both bedrooms also look north across the river with the same stunning views. Massive windows and hardwood floors and furnishings combine with slate, furs, and stone to define my ideal aesthetic.

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot’s master bathroom continues the theme with a sweeping tiled shower and lux rainhead. Exposed sink basins made of stone and porcelain complement the chrome fixtures gleaming in the light filtering through the broch’s circular southern windows.

Attractive decorations like woodcuts, antlers, and nature-inspired statues keep with the broch’s style and are tastefully positioned throughout the abode.

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Lethnot Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Outside the broch I found a picnic table, charcoal grill, and a Swedish hot tub replete with additional Sonos speakers so you can keep the soundtrack going while soaking with a highland view.

During my three-night stint at Balbinny I had the opportunity to stay in Esk, Balbinny’s other broch, and explore the steadings and facilities. Esk is a mirror image of Lethnot in design, though it has its own unique interior flourishes.

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

I frankly enjoyed wandering through the brochs and focusing on all the little touches, from reading lights and USB ports over the beds to chairs, cushions, and couches perfectly placed to admire the views.

The hell of a place like Balbinny — and I say this about all the finest accommodations in Scotland — is that they’re so nice you don’t want to head out and do things in the area! And that, my friends, is the mark of success. Balbinny is a getaway, a place where you can hole up, get comfortable, and appreciate the love that has gone into creating this space.

That said, Balbinny is also ideally situated to explore all of Angus and even into Perthshire and Aberdeenshire. From Balbinny you can easily visit the Angus glens, Dundee, Glamis Castle, Dunnottar Castle, and further afield.

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

Esk Broch, Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

The steadings trade the historic flourishes of the brochs for larger, more modern vibes, but the quality of the design and interior remains at the same, high level. In the steadings I found multi-story accommodations perfect for families whereas the brochs struck me as just the kind of intimate getaway for a couple. The views from the steadings might be a notch below the brochs, but I’m splitting hairs.

In the facilities building I found a gorgeous swimming pool and hot tub with another stunning wall of windows. David informed me that you can schedule spa services here and also get in a workout with an eyeful of Angus countryside. If you didn’t want to leave Balbinny at all, you can also have groceries delivered to the property, a service I took advantage of in advance of my visit.

The Steads at Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

The Spa at Balbinny, Angus, Scotland

As I traveled through Angus I kept thinking about how most travelers take two routes north from the cities: Up the A9 through central Scotland or up the west coast via Oban and Fort William. But my experiences in Dundee, Angus, and Aberdeenshire cracked open the idea that there are really three great ways go north, and the journey through Angus is on the par with the others.

Balbinny is the perfect base to start this journey through Angus. The brochs and steadings have wonderful design and architecture, top-end furnishings and attention to detail, and all the little flourishes that make the difference between a good and a great stay. Balbinny is proof that David’s decision to pivot from farming to tourism was a good decision indeed.

Come see for yourself, but keep your plans light. You might not want to leave.

Disclosure: Balbinny provided me with a complimentary visit. All thoughts and opinions expressed here, as always, are my own.

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