Off-Roading with Glen Esk Wildlife Tours

One of the big draws for swinging eastward into Angus are the beautiful Angus Glens stretching south out of the Cairngorms National Park. These five glens – Glenisla, Glen Prosen, Glen Clova, Glen Lethnot, and Glen Esk – are among Scotland’s most naturally beautiful highlights and provide an unfettered view of the mammoth national park. Here you’ll find endless scenic vistas, incredible hiking opportunities, and historic tales nestled in the earth. Glen Esk is particularly noteworthy, and I journeyed to explore it from my base at Balbinny as part of day that included Edzell Castle.

Leaving Aberlemno I drove up to the market town of Brechin before turning onto a narrow road curving north/northwest toward Glen Esk. I’d noted some sights and hikes as possible activities but otherwise I had nothing booked, which is a typical day of exploring in Scotland for me. I arrived to the Glenesk Folk Museum at mid-morning (there seems to be no consensus about the spelling of Glen Esk vs. Glenesk). The folk museum is a community retreat and museum overflowing with artifacts and stories relaying the history of this beautiful, secluded glen.

As I casually browsed the informational plaques and took notes on the glen’s highlights, I was met by Jackie Taylor, a guide for Glen Esk Wildlife Tours. She asked if I was there for the tour, which I wasn’t, but we struck up a good conversation. The group who had booked her services was running late, and she said she could take me into the glen if they didn’t show. Sign me up. Jackie suggested I head into nearby Tarfside and find the Pictish stone before returning to the folk museum. I took her advice, found beautiful scenery but no stone, and returned to the museum to find myself on an unexpected tour of Glen Esk with a knowledgeable guide.

I climbed into Jackie’s Range Rover and together we drove along the River North Esk through Tarfside west to ruined Invermark Castle. This staunch tower house was built in 1526 by the Lindsays of Crawford to deter highland cattle thieves from messing about on their lands. The castle stands at the edge of the Invermark Estate, which is owned by Lord Dalhousie and gated to prevent unauthorized vehicles. A path snakes through the glen and into the estate, and there were more than a few hikers making the trek into Glen Esk and beyond to Glen Tanar, but that wouldn’t be us. Jackie produced a key and unlocked the estate’s gate. We were about to go off-roading.

Just inside the gates a herd of highland ponies greeted us and seemed to be guarding a great fenced pen full of red deer. These are working ponies who actually carry stags when vehicles can’t. Amazing!

The heart of Glen Esk is a sweeping expanse shot through with a cobalt river tumbling over rocks. Beneath the brilliant blue sky bald, stoney hills rise above heathery swaths. The Range Rover bounced over a rough path as Jackie pointed out birds of prey and moorland species with her eagle eye. This is Glen Esk Wildlife Tours’ specialty, and whether you’re with Jackie or Andy you’re bound to spy some of the glen’s native residents.

Deep in Glen Esk we stopped along an outwash of stones and began searching the rocks for sunbathing adders — Scotland’s only venomous snake. Jackie rattled off safety precautions and warnings as I slowly stepped among the warm rocks thinking twice about the wisdom of such a hunt. For better or for worse we didn’t find any adders. A reward of coffee, tea, and cakes followed nonetheless. This was a welcome refreshment as I was starving by this point, and while I munched on a delicious chocolate brownie we talked about how Glen Esk is a pure slice of the Cairngorms without the crowds.

Not far from our resting place stood another of Glen Esk’s highlights: The Queen’s Well. The well is built in the shape of a granite crown and was erected to commemorate Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s visit in 1861. It’s a beautiful monument standing lonely in this windswept, secluded moorland. This is a natural spring, and once upon a time people would drink from it, but I would temper your enthusiasm (see the picture above).

Jackie was super friendly, knowledgeable, and engaging. I usually explore on my own wherever I am in Scotland, but she reminded me that having a guide can truly elevate an experience. As we left Glen Esk under the watchful eye of Rowan Tower I recounted the red deer, ponies, and scads of birds we’d noticed on our wildlife tour. The tour and Jackie’s company were a serendipitous treat and a highlight of my entire trip.

Glen Esk really is one of the prettiest Angus Glens and an over-looked slice of the Cairngorms National Park.

Disclosure: Glen Esk Wildlife Tours provided me with a complimentary tour. All thoughts and opinions expressed here, as always, are my own.