The Storm-Battered Dunes of St. Cyrus

The Angus and Aberdeenshire coastline is a string of beaches, cliffs, and sheltered bays. Compared to the west coast of Scotland, this eastern coastline looks downright pleasant, some might say same-y if only looking at a map, but a map does little to convey the violence of the North Sea storms that sweep over this region. The St. Cyrus National Nature Reserve between Montrose and Stonehaven is a beautiful strip of sandy beach prey to these wicked storms.

St. Cyrus NNR makes a great visit on any journey along Scotland’s eastern coastline. I visited after leaving Balbinny in the heart of Angus en route to Stonehaven and glorious Dunnottar Castle. The day blessed me with blue skies and not even a hint of approaching storms, though the wind was biting and very chilly.

A boardwalk from the slim parking area leads over sandy heath to the coast. You’ll find some informational boards along the way, but the big draw is the sea just over the far dune. The boardwalk eventually terminates at a set of sandy rock steps that carry you over the top of the dunes.

St. Cyrus comprises 230 acres of coastal habitat supporting more than 300 plant species and 70 different bird species like redshanks, oystercatchers, curlews, buzzards, kestrels, and even peregrine falcons. The flowering plants are especially plentiful among the sandy grasslands, and it’s here where you’re bound to find butterflies, moths, and insects, if you’re into that sort of that thing.

From atop the dunes you have a wide-angle view north and south to Montrose and of the beautiful reddish beach curling against the sea. This is good, fine sand, and you’ll see many beach-combers, dog-walkers, and dreamers wandering its sepia-toned length.

There are some prehistoric archaeological sites in the neighborhood, places like the Stone of Morphie and Gourdon Hill for those who like to bring together multiple flavors of activities in a single day. The Stone of Morphie is an unshaped standing stone about 3.5 meters high that is believed to be the burial site of a Viking warlord whose army was destroyed by the Scots at the Battle of Barry in 1010 AD.

I loved all the driftwood on St. Cyrus beach. Despite the blue skies I strode beneath, here was the proof of these North Sea storms. Some of the driftwood had been fashioned into crude dwellings and I could envision the type of lost-in-time Scottish beach bum who might inhabit such a shelter. I wondered if it could be me.

St. Cyrus makes for a refreshing breather on a trip through Angus and Aberdeenshire. A stop here needn’t take long, but it’d be a shame to miss out on this pretty span of eastern Scotland.