Scotland’s eastern coastline between Arbroath and Aberdeenshire is loaded with a number of engaging stops. From the Seaton Cliffs and Lunan Bay to St. Cyrus NNR and the topic of today’s post, RSPB Fowlsheugh, there’s more than enough to warrant this route for the avenue into the northern highlands (and I haven’t even mentioned Dunnottar Castle until right now).
Scotland is for the birds. My grandma used to say that in reference to something not being worth one’s time, but I use it here to literally indicate that Scotland is a place for birds and, by extension, birders. I first assumed it must be the whisky in the air because who wouldn’t flock toward that delightful aroma, but it didn’t take long to realize seabirds prefer the liminal places between water and land: Cliffs. With almost 800 islands and more than 6,000 miles of coastline, Scotland has plenty of real estate for these avian explorers.
One of the ways Scotland caters to birds and bird-lovers is through Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) sanctuaries like Fowlsheugh. The RSPB was founded in 1889 to promote the conservation and protection of birds and their habitats, and today you can find RSPB sanctuaries across Scotland. They always make for a good day out in the countryside even if you really aren’t into birds all that much (like me).
I followed a narrow dirt path as it snaked along the clifftops and along inlets and geos. Birds careened below, squacking and calling as they wheeled in the May sunshine. Far below the North Sea surged against the rocks. These clifftop walks are no joke. There aren’t rails or fences to keep you from foolishly tumbled to your doom, so take care on the path while gawping at the beauty.
Nesting birds make their homes on top of the cliffs as well as in every nook and cranny perpendicular to the sea. The stoney facades become a kind of bird hive here at Fowlsheugh, which, incidentally, means “bird cliffs.” Aptly named, Scotland.
RSPB Fowlsheugh is known to home puffins at certain times of the year, and wherever puffins are they instantly steal the spotlight. Sure, they’re attractive little toucan penguins, but what about the kittiwakes, fulmars, and oystercatchers?
Periodically I’d stop on a bench and gaze at the sea, searching for dolphins and grey seals and answers to life’s mysteries. I didn’t spot any sea life this day, but you’d be surprised how often you’ll spy seals bobbing in the water or baking on rocks.
By the time I’d completed my jaunt along the beautiful clifftops of RSPB Fowlsheugh I’d counted around 130,000 birds. That’s how many nest here in the spring and summer. It truly is one of nature’s spectacles.
RSPB Fowlsheugh is a great stop on the eastern route north to the heart of Aberdeenshire and just a short distance from Dunnottar Castle and Stonehaven. I’d recommend a visit to anyone interested in birds, hiking and walking, and beautiful views, which is everyone who comes to Scotland. Right?